Is it the Beauty or the Beast?

I just started reading the book by Fabriano Fabbri “The event horizon” on widely varying fashion styles. Interesting. Very, I’m eating. I go out to buy on newsstands the last issue of L’officiel Italy, before it’s over, I really want, is one of the few uncoated glossy magazine that keep buying. I open it, Sabrina! It all makes sense!

The editorial by photographer Asger Carlsen, artist exhibited at the last Berlin Biennale, known for his distorted images, styled by Moreno Galatà, snaps for L’Officiel Italy “Art Manipulation” by interpreting the new collections in an almost surrealist.

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The question is: I am looking at the beautiful or the beast?

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What does this have to do with reading Fabbri a magazine considered frivolous? Yes, superficial, what can you do, speaks only of fashion. Yet we tend to regard it as the last wheel of the arts, still, to quote the usual cliché, it is considered superfluous. To most people just need to cover their nakedness. Not really.

Any fashion-object, including L’officiel Italy, which derives from a deep search, as inspiration, which creates induced and innovation cannot be devalued, put on the same plane of the eternal dilemma of “what to wear today?” in front of a closet full of clothes. No mention of the amount or cost of stupid obsessions from fashion victims sometimes grotesque and embarrassing to the Viewer as well as for the wearer. We talk about design, we speak of feelings, of people inspired by artists in every respect. A collection is a major project like a film, any art that requires preparation. Now I get it. We return to the question: I’m looking at the beautiful or the beast? Just in the first pages of his book F expresses the need to approach fashion with the same grid of interpretation of art criticism. He devoted himself to the cause of beauty or the cause of the beast.

Fabbri says:”All that which meets the parameters of a canonical and instinctively elegant , stylish, eternalbeauty, is Beauty with a capital “B”. But there is a much more radical conterpart, symbolically connectable to the metaphor of the Beast, wich on the contrary plants its claws in a removed dimension…Do we want to change the characteristics of the body or do we prefer to cover it to make us more attractive?

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Comme des Garçon AW 10/11

There is no denying that aesthetics is part of art, in the case of fashion beauty comes through experimentation with forms, and as explained by blacksmiths, sometimes bestial forms, where the seduction lies in interpretation. A bit like realism and abstraction. The sense is that the object-moda is a medium that can become a fine art image, interpretable or light it is, an image that conveys a concept.

Reflection must also lead to a magazine, though an understatement to call it in these terms, because the key to understanding the culture of fashion is to remark, no snobbery.

And if an artist of the world scene that specifically did not do with fashion, but he joined as one of the many figurative expressions to convey their artistic vision, how can it be considered a minor art fashion yet?

We analyze the stylists as the Van Gogh of century nascent and 20th century just past, wary from the photos of outfits made and ended up leading street style to a condition inferior to what was until the advent of the blogger phenomenon. Of course, the inspiration comes of the way, but if the road is no more spontaneity, maybe we should be careful not to lose sight of all the art forms that make us instinctively close my eyes to imagine.

(Italiano) A come Abbronzatura

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Da circa 5 o 6 anni a questa parte non prendo più sole. Ne prendo poco, in città, la sera al mare al calar delle tenebre. Ho scoperto la protezione 100 e gli ombrelloni, l’acqua quando il cielo è nuvoloso è più calda. In sintesi è il sole che mi scoccia, il caldo, il sudore, gli eritemi della pelle.

Molti mi danno della snob, altri mi dicono che faccio bene chè sto invecchiando (grazie), tutti son convinti che un pò di colore smorzi il grigio candore, altri che l’abbronzatura blattesca sia volgare, la via di mezzo, il sole fa male, il sole fa bene…decidetevi! Insomma, il dilemma dell’essere o non essere abbronzati non si risolve. Nel 1928 Vogue lancia il dibattito “Essere o non essere abbronzati”, ma nel 1939 l’abbronzatura è già in pieno uso e consumo.

Ho scoperto che dai primi del 900 ad oggi la moda dell’abbronzatura è un’altalena che qualche volta va e qualche anno dopo dovresti fare lo sbiancamento della pelle.

Dipende dai cambiamenti socio-culturali ed è interessante come le varie maison di cosmesi e abbigliamento riflettano decisioni che arrivano da un cambiamento radicalizzato dall’alto. Chi contagia cosa non importa, il marketing dei prodotti di largo consumo diventa uno strumento politico, inconsapevolmente per quasi tutti i consumatori, per propinarci uno stile di vita.  b557bdd6ca652d9d9901482aaca4d0e0
Nel 1936, secondo i canoni del fascismo, un corpo abbronzato è un corpo in salute che fa sport ed è bello. Cesare Meano scriveva nel Commentario Dizionario della Moda che l’abbronzatura corrispondeva alla voce sport, palese propaganda fascista in procinto d’insediarsi perfino nelle scelte estetiche. Pacchetto completo di uno stile di vita: branding.

La leggenda narra che in Francia la moda del colorito bronzeo fu lanciata da Chanel. Negli anni 30,  torna a Parigi dorata dal sole della costa azzurra e decide di liberare le donne da velette e ombrellini ingombranti. Scoppia così una nuova tendenza: l’abbronzatura diventa sinonimo di viaggio, di vacanza, di ricchezza.

Altro che plebe scuretta vista malignamente dalle antiche classi aristocratiche! Così in tutta la storia dell’arte sino alle donne paffute dell’800 per terminare con le donne atletiche di inizio ‘900. Tutte sempre con un unico segno distintivo, la pelle bianca. d1c39faca34ee2dda2db787be1402a57

La solfa iniziò a cambiare verso la fine dell’ 800 quando nacquero i primi movimenti naturisti e nudisti. La tendenza veniva dall’Europa del Nord dove il sole è poco, notoriamente poco aggressivo, le città diventavano più grandi, le case più piccole, la necessità era di stare all’aria aperta. Poi, nel 1900, una coppietta hipster dell’epoca Henry Oedenkoven (belga) e Ida Hofman (tedesca), fondò una colonia utopista di stampo socialista basata sul vegetarianesimo e sull’elioterapia. Quando nel 1903 il premio Nobel per la Medicina fu vinto dal danese Niels Ryberg Finsen che aveva curato con successo la tubercolosi della pelle con la terapia della luce, si cominciò a prescrivere bagni di sole a tutti i bianchicci malaticci magrucci. La vita all’aria aperta e lo sport erano diventati valori.

Le prime lampade abbronzanti nacquero nel 1910 per fini medici. Il primo solare lo inventò lo stilista Patou nel 1927 e da quel momento in poi tutto andò a rotoli, da una doratura moderata si arrivò ben presto ad un’arrostitura in cartapècora.

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Tra gli anni 60 e gli anni 80 i veri pallidi erano infatti i poveri e gli intellettuali, ci fu un’esasperazione dell’abbronzatura tradotto in cosmesi con terre e fondotinta improponibili. Effetto Magda, la zia di Tutti pazzi per Mary. Oggi potrebbe essere effetto Donatella, la sorella sempre un passo indietro del compianto Gianni.  Dovremo aspettare il minimalismo degli anni 90 che, con l’avvento della chirurgia plastica facciale, trasmette un nuovo modo di rivalutare il corpo: il sole distrugge il lavoro del chirurgo.

Oggi è come tutto ciò che ci circonda, fluido, libero, non c’è una moda precisa, ce ne sono diverse che possano accontentare tutti. Salute o bellezza a parte.

 

Poiret, a man of vision

Fashion is planning, symptom of social and cultural change.

Design a fashion collection means designing a lifestyle, think of the whole message you want to communicate to 360°reflecting on ways to be used to disclose it. I’m not just talking about branding. Before the fashion blogger there were artists that told their time by a dress.

Poiret, just saying.
The revolutionary Paul, who in the early 900 drew fluctuating geometries in spite of sadistic corsets and laces dangerous to health of woman. Broken ribs and tuberculosis were among the most frequent disasters being fashionable in the Belle Èpoque.

Fashion becomes a rethink of female behavior, a totalitarian change.
But like most times, we find him with Chanel in the 30’s and Armani, Moschino and Krizia in Italy in the 80’s and so on. etc…and is not all, but stop! Anyways, let’s do this.
Poiret deletes the corset, the woman’s immobility constriction, social immobility included.
His sketches dancing, reminiscent of the charming nonchalance of the femme fatale of the Roaring 20. Harem pants, humpel skirt, turban, cloak-kimono, bewitching odalisques wipe out strutting hourglasses.

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********: Creation de Paul Poiret tiree de "Les Robes de Paul Poiret", dessin de Paul Iribe. 1911. Volterra, Baths*** Permission for usage must be provided in writing from Scala.

Light and frilly dresses are literally promoted through fluids sketches showing the loose and natural line. The designer had realized the importance of promoting and interactivity of art, not surprisingly made use of famous illustrators like Paule Iribe and George Lepape. Drugs with him the ranks of the colorists Fauves colorists and influenced mainly by Derain, contrasting pastel shades of his colleagues, including Worth.

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Hello! Modern branding.

The tailor who coordinates its own brand.
On the importance of the sketch to the finished product, up to the promotion to complete the sale.

You could say that Poiret marked the transition from being a tailor, to become an entrepreneur.

Poiret possessed investment acumen: was responsible for contacts with magazines of the period, the Gazette du bon ton at the first; took care of everything of his atelier, visual included for the big windows of studio; he took care of the business decisions and was the first to organize fashion shows are touring Europe, with nine mannequin, to promote their creations. As the most navigate today’s fashion house, launched lady’s perfume carry the bottles from … not less than…the big Lalique.

Raoul Dufy per l'atelier MartineAlso approaches to interior design with the consultation of some experts of the time, Raoul Dufy. Outside of Paris conventions opened an art school that was named Martine, his daughters. Recruited children 11 years old and leaves them completely free to express yourself. By the idea of their patterns realized fabrics and carpets.

 

His other illustrious colleagues have followed in his footsteps, but he was the precursor, the revolutionary.

Depop, your purse shop

Perseverance and patience.
Very true, but i’m never going to sell of depop, at this rate…maybe to 50 years!

Depop is an application for smartphones that allows you to sell and buy from private, became popular through the use of famous blogger and lately used by the celebrities for charity.
Marketing team of Depop you’ve earned an A-plus!
The idea is brilliant, smart like everything is now. So much smart that wins not be, language and pic included. Apparently simple, actually is a meticulous combination.
The aesthetic rules to follow are very specific: photo with natural light, neutral background preferably, few frills. It’s important a clear perception of what it wants to buy.

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Everything has to be immediately evident at the first picture.
Then, to show everyone, we can expect that the app will choose again and again for the board of “chosen by us”.
Then, we can expect to sell.
Diligence, social talent, luck.
Born to sell socializing, with the sociability of social means, full of hearts and smiley faces.
I don’t know if I like it.
At the moment there’s one thing that I like most of all: I poke around in the closet of Dita von Teese, a dream! (she’s in here, on depop).

Muru Muru

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Muru Muru, the brainchild of Fiorella Sanna photographer: the world details to stick to the walls. As a reminder, a flashback, a clue. History is up to you.

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Are photos transferred to the canvas through A special craftsmanship technique with those smudges and scratches it gives the image an almost vintage charm. They not by chance are displayed on the walls of my shop and not coincidentally was born a partnership that could start new Muru Muru themed …

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Fiorella calls his Muru Muru: short stories from the wall.

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… I like to call: poetry from the wall;)

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Lollove on paper, finally

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Finally comes Lollove on paper and i’m very happy! I’ve been waiting ( not alone ) and then i had hosted an exhibition linked to the covers of magazine inspirated by french vogue in the  seventies glam edited by the photographer Stefania Paparelli.

The copies of the No. 0 and unedited No. 1 will be presented Thursday, May 5, 2016 between Lab-A new exhibition space in Via San Domenico and the Bar Florio, just ahead. At the event you can take your own copy, you can visit an exhibition linked to Lollove to Lab-A and finally listen to the DJ set by Raver Jewish and Dani Garcia at Florio.

Welcome

 

 

Welcome to the world of Love Retro!
Love Retrò is a vintage and contemporary boutique in the heart of Villanova – a historic neighbourhood of Cagliari.
Vintage, for me, embodies the romantic side of fashion where it all began, and which still influences today’s fashion trends . For this reason I chose a the historic area of Villanova, a neighbourhood, recently restored and modernised while respecting its historic architecture and traditions . Villanova offers a fabulous blend of Cagliari past and present. Old friends can be found exchanging local gossip in the piazzas while dodging the kids that whizz by on bicycles. Modern tattoo parlours sit next to antique barbers and corner shops face modern boutiques. Its easy to lose yourself wandering the tiny streets with their flowery balconies, artist studios and bars. At the heart of Villanova is Bar Florio (shown in video) a new bar which i love – it brings a new breath of life to Villanova with its friendly staff, great tunes and intimate atmosphere- its worth sitting down for a cold drink in the lovely San Domenco piazza to watch the locals pass by. Like, Villanova, Love Retro brings life to the fashion and styles of the past with a modern twist.